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Object Name BODICE
Catalog Number 0985.13.01080
Description Adult bodice with outer fabric of a plain weave cotton with a linear floral motif. The motif is printed on, not woven in. The motif consists of quarter-inch medium brown stripes alternating with eighth-inch red and eighth-inch dark brown strips. The dark brown stripe has a white dot pattern in it. The stripes run vertically, except for the waistband, where they run horizontally. The floral pattern alternates with the stripes and consists of four blossoms in an oval arrangement around a dark brown center. The blossoms measure 1.125" X 1.375" and repeat every seven-eighths inch lengthwise and 2.875" widthwise. The lining is a twill weave cotton. The neckline is plain and round, coming to the base of the neck. The bodice has a true front and back and is "O" shaped - "Fabric falls over bust in folds to gathers around the waist." (1). The armscye is dropped with piping around it. The shoulder seams run about one inch to the back of the shoulder top. The side seams run about 1.5" toward the garment back. The sleeves are straight with seven-eighths-inch wide cuffs, which are gathered. The sleeves have 3.5" plackets, half-inch button holes, and no buttons. There are five half-inch button holes, but buttons are missing. The button holes run from 1.75" below the neckline to the waistband. The waistband is 1.25" wide and falls at the natural waist in a straight, horizontal line. The waistband is fastened by two hooks and eyes. The hooks are double-wire and brass colored, on the underside of the bodice right edge opening, in one inch. The eyes are brass colored, "C" shaped, on the left underside, extending out from the edge. Fasteners are Civil War era. (2). A third hook is at the waistband bottom, four inches from the left side of the bodice opening. There is no corresponding eye. The upper edge of the waistband is top stitched. The bodice is only partially lined. The sleeves are lined to within about four inches of the cuffs. The lining is gathered and sewn into armscye seams but hang loosely within the sleeve. The lining extends from top of the armscye to the top of shoulder and down to waistband in a six-inch wide strip. The lining edges are unfinished except for armscye seams, which are double stitched. The waistband is lined with the edges whip-stitched together. The garment is entirely hand-stitched, using a plain cotton thread. The armscye andand side seams are backstitched. The sleeve and shoulder seams are invisibly stitched. The front opening edges are stitched into place with running stitches, visible on the outside. The basting stitches are left in place.
Dimensions L-13 inches
Owned Mary Evelina Toler Gooch (Mollie) [Mrs. Stapleton Dabney]
Provenance The label reads, "My Mother's / Ran Blockade to Charleston from Louisa and ugly as it is it cost $18.00 per yard."

Believed owned by Mary Evelina Toler Gooch (b. 1834) of Virginia. She was the mother of Susie L. Gooch Anderson.
People Gooch, Mary Evelina Toler (Mollie) [Mrs. Stapleton Dabney]
Toler, Mary Evelina (Mollie)
Subjects women
Clothing & dress
Blockade running