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Object Record

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Object Name DRESS
Catalog Number 0985.13.01074
Date ca. 1895
Description Adult dress of blue on white, sheer tight weave cotton. Jewel neckline with a 1.5-inch, self fabric stand-up collar, lined with stiffiner. Center front opening and two rows of top stitching at the collar base. The sleeves are full length and straight with a cuff has a two-inch ruffle on top, and a 2.75-inch ruffle on the bottom, tacked on a diagonel to flare upward. The center front opening extends from neckline to hem and is fastened with twenty buttons. Seven buttons are sewn in place ( no buttonholes). The button holes are hand-stitched. The center front panels consist of two extending from shoulder to flounce and widen as they go down. The front hem is shorter than the back hem. The front is fifty-four inches long from neck to hem. the back is sixty-four inches long from neckline to hem. The front darts extend from the underarm to six inches below the waist. Another dart is centered between the front panel and underarm dart; it extends six inches above waist and nine inches below. The back darts are between the center seam and side seam and extend from shoulder to thirteen inches below the waist. The waistline is horizontal and falls at natural waist. It has neither trim nor belt. The back shoulder seams are about one inch behind the natural shoulder top and slope downward from the back of neck to armscye. The center back seam is full length to flounce. The back side seams start at the armscye and extend to the flounce. The bottom ruffle encircles the garment. It is 2.75 inches wide and has a quarter-inch hem. The bottom ruffle has nine sections, each about twelve inches long. The buttons are pearl-shell, fish-eye (oval depression surrounding holes). (1). The woven print is in three sections: 1) solid blue geometric/rectangular motif, 2.125 inches wide, running vertically; 2) above alternating with an open (not solid) blue pattern, diamond-shaped, 1.375 inches wide, running vertically; and 3) above separated by a double line of alternating blue dots and blue/white diamonds, with the double line of blue dots being a quarter-inch wide and the diamonds being an eighth-inch wide. The garment is entirely machine stitched, except for the button holes. In general, garment construction is of poor quality. The collar is set-in unevenly. The machine tension is off in some seams. The stitches do not interlock properly and come in varying stitch lengths. The waistline seam is very poorly matched; it is off three inches between right front and back waist seam. The basting threads are left in while seam edges are not finished.
Dimensions L-54 inches
Owned Gooch family
Provenance Adult dress that belonged to a female member of the Gooch family of Louisa County, Virginia. Probably Mary Evelina Toler Gooch (1834-1920), or her sister, Martha "Mattie" F. Gooch Vaughan (1837-1899); or possibly Mary's daughter, Susie Lightfoot Gooch Anderson (Mrs. George K. Anderson) (1860-1938).
People Gooch family
Subjects women
Clothing & dress