TACWM logo

Object Record

  • Email This Page
  • Send Feedback
Object Name CHEMISE
Catalog Number 1974.008.00012
Description Adult chemise of a plain weave, bleached white cotton. The neckline is square and scooped, with a center back opening. The front and back neckline are constructed of white eyelet embroidery 1.3875" long. The front and back neckline have the upper edge scalloped, finished with button hole stitch. The scallops are 0.375" X 0.75" in size. A flower with seven leaves and three blossoms are centered below each scallop. The leaves are done with satin stitch. The blossoms are eighth-inch open circles, edged in stem stitch. The lower section is a repeating pattern of abstracting flowers, 0.375" X 1" in size. Each flower consists of nine leaves in satin stitch and three one-eighth-inch open work blossoms, edged with stem stitch. The upper and lower sections are edged with quarter-inch strips of matching fabric connected by a chain stitch. Embroidery forms the neckline, front and back, and is open at the center back. The center back edges are turned under one-sixteenth inch and slip-stitched. The inside lower edge of embroidery is faced with a one-inch strip of matching cotton fabric. The upper and lower edges are turned under and slip-stitched. The facing strip is constructed of two pieces, one 12.125" long and the other, 29.125" long, slip-stitched together. The embroidery is sewn to the garment body in very tiny slip-stitches. The sleeves are a cap variation. The upper section has small, tight gathers on top and bottom. The bottom edge is trimmed with the same embroidery used on the neckline and faced on the inside in the same manner as neckline. The underarm seam is eighth-inch, hand-sewn, edge turned under and slip-stitched into place. The underarm gussets are diamond-shaped, 9.75" X 7.25" in size. The long sides are reinforced with matching strips of fabric, half inch at upper end and 1.5 inches at lower end. The edges of fabric strips are turned under and slip-stitched in very tiny almost invisible stitches. The short sides of the diamond have one-sixteenth inch hand-stitched, lapped variation seams - top fabric edge is turned under one-sixteenth inch and basted. This basted edge then laps over the edge of the bottom piece and slip-stitched in place using very tiny stitches. This gives a cleanly finished seam on the inside. The unfinished edge on the outside was then turned under and slip-stitched in place with tiny, almost invisible stitches. The main body is bell-shaped and widens from 14.5" at upper end to 44.25" at the hem. The front, right and left neck corners are triangular-shaped gussets, 1.75" X 1.5" in size. The gussets are faced with matching fabric. The gusset edges are turned under an eighth inch and stitched with very tiny, regular running stitches. The piece is sewn into the garment body with tiny slip-stitches. The gusset facing has edges turned under an eighth inch. The piece is slip-stitched to the garment body. The main body, upper edge between gussets is gathered in tiny, tight gathers. The main body, back, right and left neck corners have gussets constructed in the same manner as those on the front neckline. The main body, back, upper edge between gussets and center back has tiny tight gathers. The main body, back, center back opening is "V" shaped and is 8 inches long. The right side overlaps the left at the lower end. The left edge is turned under one-sixteenth inch and slip-stitched with tiny stitches. The right edge is turned under a half-inch and slip-stitched in very tiny stitches. The lower end of placket has two rows of stitches, one-sixteenth inch apart, for reinforcement. The side panels, right are triangular-shaped, 11.5 inches long at hem and 1 inch long at the front neckline gusset. The right side is formed by the side seam. The left side extends into the front panel. The left seam is about one-thirty-second-inch, with the edges joined and overcast in very tiny stitches. This seam is almost invisible. The side panels, left are triangular-shaped, 11.5 inches long at hem and 1 inch long at back neckline gusset. The right side is formed by the side seam. The left side extends into garment back. The left seam is about one-thirty-second inch, with the edges joined and overcast in very tiny, almost invisible stiches. The hem is one inch wide, with edges turned under one-sixteenth inch and is slip-stitched in tiny stitches.
Dimensions H-49 inches
Owned Mrs. M. R. Zirkle (tentative)
Provenance The chemise came from the estate of Mrs. Mercedes Gladys Zirkle Valentine (1892-1974). The chemise was possibly the property of her mother Mrs. M. R. Zirkle.
People Zirkle, M. R., Mrs.